Electrical Box Safety | regency-island-dunes

Are Challenger Electrical Panels Safe? – An Expert’s Guide

June 2, 2022

Are you currently in a home with a Challenger electrical panel service? A vintage panelboard is rare and has a limited life span. It might have served its purpose for the longest time. However, there are lots to consider if they’re still usable or not.

If you’re living in an old house, questions like “are Challenger electrical panels safe” are expected. On a similar note, the answer is simple too. It is unsafe to use Challenger breaker boxes because overheating and old age issues exist. When its breakers overheat, it creates melting, arching, and corrosion between the bus bars.

How to Know if Your Panel Is Already Unsafe

The performance of your electrical panel will tell you best if it is still safe to use or not. There are different physical factors evident around your house that you can look up for signs.

One example is when you turn on a water heater, air conditioner, or even a simple light fixture, and their breaker constantly trips. If the breaker, your appliance, or the wirings between them doesn’t have a problem, it is due to your outdated panel.
Moreover, an outdated panel will show hazardous signs in the breaker box itself, such as burnt marks, burning smells, crackling sounds, or sparks. If at least one of the factors mentioned above is present, this Challenger panel is already at its peak.

The History of Challenger Electrical

So how did the issues start? Let’s go back for a bit of history and learn where the dangers originate. GTE-Sylvania created the Challenger electrical panel in 1973, aiming to produce a high-end electrical service for efficient power distribution.

It was a success, and they sold hundreds of thousands of units, making them famous in the ’80s and ’90s due to their excellent bus bar designs. Also, it was the peak of the Industrial Revolution, so people were switching from old fuse boxes into brand new electrical panels, which were safer.

However, Challenger faced a similarity in design as the circuit breakers from Zinsco, the same owners of GTE-Sylvania. Since then, the company has faced controversial issues such as brand re-labeling into Zinsco, and constant electrical equipment recalls.

They had a good bus design, but their relations with Zinsco put their breakers into the must-remove list. After the constant breaker recall in 1988, the company was sold to four more prominent companies until they ended up with Eaton/Cutler-Hammer Co.

Being with Eaton does not mean it’s their final resting place. Last 2014 they’ve reissued a Challenger electrical panels recall regarding their circuit breakers causing electric shocks. The root of this breaker problem was the usage of similar parts as their old Challenger breaker models.

Nevertheless, Eaton was the last owner of Challenger before they finally discontinued manufacturing their products. With all that bad history of Challenger, you now know where this is going. Challenger electrical panels are not safe for use anymore, so let’s dive deeper into their product’s safety concerns.

Their Product’s Safety Concerns

Suppose the company’s bad reputation and multiple recalls don’t convince you yet. In that case, we’ll tackle the list of problems experienced by homeowners in the hands of a Challenger load center. Since they’re correlated with Zinsco, they had similar safety hazards to worry about.

Overheating

One is overheating, the primary concern for this panel. When discussing Challenger electrical panels problems, overheating is the biggest because it leads to other severe complications like melting, corrosion, and fires with breakers.

Now, why do they overheat? A build-up of heat starts with circuit breakers. In the case of Challenger, it takes a moment before they trip, long enough for the encountered electrical issue to generate heat and worsen the problem of the breaker box.

Sometimes, the breaker doesn’t trip at all in a worst-case scenario. So, if the fail-safe mechanism never functions, scalds occur on the bus bars, waiting for it to flare up. What’s worse on this overheating issue is that no appliances or external problems are causing it.

They appear out of nowhere, confusing the homeowners why their breaker boxes were suddenly hot. When the bus bars overheat, unpreventable arc faults can happen between the breakers, alarming homeowners and professionals due to the fire risks at hand.

Although there are no records of Challenger e-panels on fire, their overheating can potentially harm the user or, worse, if neglected. It can melt the insulation of wires or prolong a short circuit, causing them to ignite.

No wonder they don’t make Challenger electrical panels anymore because they are not qualified for Underwriters’ Laboratories (UL) Safety Standards. Also, reports say that even Stab-Lok panels (from FPE, which is more outdated) have broader tests than Challenger.

With a short series of tests, the chances are that they overlook the must-have qualities of a breaker box. Therefore, errors like overheating happen more with Challenger than its fellow competitors.

Old age

Let’s not forget as well the fact that this electrical panel brand is more than 30 years old, and they don’t reproduce the product anymore. As a result, you have a house supported by a load center on the brink of its extinction.

Bad news always comes with outdated breaker panels. You’ll see visible spots of wear-and-tear, rusting, plastic molds, and burnt marks. The concern of safety is already out of topic here. You can expect that it won’t even pass four-point inspections.

If you’re at home, relaxing, don’t be surprised if sparks come out of your basement while you reheat your food in the microwave oven. A rotting breaker panel is not recommendable for new appliances, especially if its main breaker cannot support the appliance upgrade you did in your house.

Recall of Challenger Electrical Products

Fortunately, there is no history of electrical panel recall from Challenger. Their issues only lie in their circuit breakers and Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI). This happened way back. On November 12, 1988, CPSC recalled two of Challenger’s HAGF GFCI.

It turned out that a 15A and 20A single-pole HAGF GFCI was proven that they did not pass the quality control testing. Challenger then created preventive actions for people who’ve bought this unit, but there are at least 9000 parts they did not recover. Although it was a good recall, it was too late before they released the issue and informed their customers.

After this company’s mistake, there are 1100 parts more that they’ve recalled connected with Challenger. This was from 2014 when Eaton/Cutler-Hammer exposed the shock hazards accompanying the breakers issued with Challenger. These breakers were sold as replacements for Challenger CB, but separate manufacturers produced them, so technically, they don’t match.

So, does this mean that Challenger electrical panels are safe because they’re not recalled? It’s hard to know which Challenger electrical panels are unsafe because certainly, they worked well for others.

On the flip side, they’re not up to the UL safety code because (1) it is an old model and (2) fire risks are high if kept in use. Thus, they’re not safe.

Should I Change My Electrical Panel

Don’t be complacent and wait for your home inspectors to see that you’re still using an old load center. Breaker boxes being outdated need an immediate replacement. They know that a Challenger is a forbidden breaker box at this age, so they’ll report this as a violation of the electric code too.

Home inspectors always keep an eye on outdated load distributors. They report this in four-point inspections, which are necessary for checking problems in older homes that may worsen in the future. Most likely, if you’re not going to change it yourself, they will require you anyway.

Even though it looks like it’s having a regular electrical operation, or you still feel safe around your electrical panel, you won’t know if its internal processors are in trouble if you don’t have a professional check it out.

Non-Replacement Can Void Your Insurance

A home inspection failure is the biggest downside of insisting on a Challenger breaker panel for your home. When you fail the four-point inspections, you are sacrificing your home insurance.

Insurance companies like in Florida don’t guarantee their clients their insurance funds once accidents happen from these outlawed electrical panels. Be a responsible homeowner, and don’t let your carelessness cost you your home or life.

Conclusion

So, are Challenger electrical panels safe?

In truth, it is one of the outlawed electrical services in the market with existing reports of overheating issues. On the other hand, its circuit breakers take a while to trip, resulting in plastic melting, corrosion of contacts, or even fire.

Hence, if you still have this type of electrical service, you need to find a replacement immediately. Otherwise, it can revoke your home and electrical insurance. When it comes to accidents, it is better to be safe than be sorry afterward.

FACTS CHECKER

I am Andrew Wright. I established this blog after eight years of experience designing, installing, and maintaining electrical power systems. I love my job, and I have always wanted to offer others the necessary help so they can take care of their houses.

Andrew Wright

Additional Challenger Information

Challenger Electrical Panels https://inspectapedia.com/electric/Challenger_Electrical_Panels.php

Field Reports of overheating Challenger Electrical Panel bus & breaker components

Challenger Electrical Panel Bus Overheating Field Failure Reports

Challenger Electric panel history, field reports of overheating bus bars & circuit breakers, history, relationship to FPE Stab-Lok equipment.

This photo of a discolored, overheated bus in a Challenger electrical panel was provided by Mark Cramer, a Tampa Florida home inspector. (Nov. 2019)

The image illustrates the value of inspecting the electrical panel with care: a casual scan might miss that discolored bus (yellow arrow).

Mark Cramer Inspection Services Mark Cramer, Tampa Florida, Mr. Cramer is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors and is a home inspector in Tampa Florida, and home inspection educator.
Mr. Cramer served ASHI and the profession in many capacitines including on the ASHI Home Inspection Standards and other committees. He is a contributor to and occasional reviewer of articles at InspectApedia.com. Contact Mark Cramer at: 727-595-4211 mark@BestTampaInspector.com

*Mr. Cramer adds that currently some insurance companies will not write a homeowners or fire insurance policy on homes served by a Challenger electrical panel.*

Below are additional field reports of overheats and failures in Challenger electrical panels, including a report from Timothy Hemm.

- Timothy Hemm to Inspect Apedia December 2014

This is the third Challenger panel I have discovered with this damage. Is there a design flaw or could it be attributed to poor installation workmanship?

I asked Douglas Hanson about this, (if there is any repair) & he said the manufacturers are adamant, when the insulation material is damaged there is no repair.

I agree completely with Doug Hansen and with the panel manufacturers that an electrical panel in which you find evidence of bus overheating and damaged insulating material it is reasonable to conclude that the panel is not safe, not repairable, and should be replaced. In some cases it may be possible to retain the enclosure and install a replacement bus assembly. Any chance you can get a hold of one of these panels? If so, clip the wires - don't disturb anything on the bus assembly.

About 2 years ago I sent you an email regarding my Challenger panel that accepts Eaton Cutler Hammer type BR circuit breakers, and wanted to let you know what happened recently.

I was inspecting the panel and found that the piece of bus that feeds the main bus that comes from the main breakers was very discolored.

More Challenger Electrical Panel Field Reports

Photographs of this 1980's Challenger electrical panel were provided by a licensed electrician in California who recommended electrical panel replacement as the overheated panel and its circuit breakers were considered unsafe. The electrician noted:

Notice the burning and discoloration on the buss bar on the line and load side of the meter socket. It also carries on into the distribution side as well on the very same phase.... Not only did the client have over-heating & burning inside his panel, (which may have resulted/caused from the bad utility connection) ,but he also had poor utility connection as well. - private email DF / anon 2016/01/25

We agreed, stating

electrical panel bus discoloration, if not obvious corrosion, is a reliable indication of over heating. That is an abnormal and unsafe condition as its likely to mean overcurrent have been present without the breakers tripping. I suspect faulty circuit breakers in that case.

Even before condemning the panel based on brand and history data, the overheating is a serious red flag and argues for replacement - something one would reportage advise.

Adding the brand adds emphasis. I've also found signs of overheating on local grounds when the utility company's neutral connection is poor or lost. (LOST NEUTRAL SHOCKS HOMEOWNER ).

However even a loss of power on the utility side of the meter and panel would not (in any way I can see) explain overheating on one leg of the panel main bus nor in the panel itself.

History of Challenger Electrical Panels and Challenger-FPE-Stab-Lok Design circuit breaker products

Excerpting comments posted by Jraef, a moderator in Mike Holt's electrical forum on 11/18/2015, original source: http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=173243 with [Editor's annotations] - Ed.

Challenger [Electric] became part of Eaton [Cutler Hammer] years ago, but had bought the rights to the [FPE] Stab-Lok breaker when FPE went bust. Eaton however wanted no part of that legacy, so they had Challenger sell off that product line before the takeover.

They sold it to a company called Providence, [sic, actually "Provident Electric" - Ed.] who later [in 1988] changed their name to American Circuit Breaker Co. (ACBC). They now own the rights to sell that breaker as a "Stab-Lok" replacement breaker.

But the old FPE also had an independent Canadian division, and THAT division had the rights to make and sell the Stab-Lok breakers in Canada and as they later claimed, the US as well. The name of that company changed to Federal Pioneer, then later just Pioneer.

Pioneer was then later bought by Schneider, who of course owns Sq. D too, but Schneider wanted no part of marketing the Stab-Lok breakers in the US. In a huge fight over this, ACBC settled on giving up their production facility in South Carolina that was making the breakers, in deference to Pioneer making them for them in Canada at a guaranteed price.

At the same time Schneider gave up the rights to sell and use the name Stab-Lok in the US and ACBC cannot sell in Canada. The Canadian version is made as grey, the US version is still black. The Canadian grey versions still make it here on the "grey market" (ironically) and are exactly the same beside the color of the plastic.

If you see Stab-Lok breakers that still say Challenger on them, they are old stock, as in pre-1988. Challenger, as a brand name now owned by Eaton, has no official connection to that product any longer.

When Schneider forced ACBC to stop making the Stab-Lok breakers, Connecticut Electric (CE) supposedly bought the old ACBC factory in South Carolina including the molds and machinery used to make the old Stab-Lok breakers (they moved it I think).

But they do not have the rights to the name "Stab-Lok", so you will not see it on their version. In addition, they did not get the rights to the UL listings for them in FPE load centers. So the only thing CE could do is get their versions "Classified" for use in FPE load centers, and because UL had a problem with FPE's listings even when they were FPE, CE got listing under ETL (which some people view as "easier" to get than UL).

Also see FPE STAB-LOK HISTORY where we include details of the history of FPE, Federal Pacific Electric Company, American Circuit Breaker Company [ACBC], Oregan Breakers, INc., Provident Industries, Federal Electric Products (Canada), Pioneer Electric (Canada), Schneider Electric Canada and others.

Field report: Electrical Failures in a Westinghouse - Challenger Electric Panel

Above: corrosion and possible overheating at connectors in a Westinghouse - Challenger electrical panel. [Click to enlarge any image]

Note: shown here are Challenger™ circuit breakers, not Stab-lok™ design circuit breakers, installed in a Westinghouse™ / Challenger™ Electrical panel - Editor.

I have a more urgent situation for a neighbor of mine besides my reputation being on the line it's always a matter of property and lives at stake not being a licensed electrician, plumber,heating guy. He is too close for comfort as well. It's a Westinghouse(?) panel with Challenger [brand circuit] breakers. That name jumped out at me. I've heard of it but while on the job I just couldn't remember exactly, no their not stab-locks. He complained of slowly losing power at receptacles and burning out incandescent bulbs quite too often. Ok bad grounds, no problem. His utility ground spike clamp was loose from someone doing siding and forgot to remember something safety hazard wise-how stupid. He had normal for a wet basement corrosion on the ground buss bar-why do they not make the screws out of aluminum too I don't know why but we all know 3 dissimilar metals just don't work together nicely in O2.

Is it too much to ask for when being installed by the installer is to put noalox [antixoidant] on most if not all connections? He had no black carbon arcing flash burns on any of the lugs,etc..

I further investigated aluminum corrosion in the main breaker leg holes and discolored lug strip on one side. This didn't look right and [that is] the reason i'm contacting you about this.

I did some reading and can't be 100% sure that it is because of the main breaker or one or more breakers that failed to trip on overload over time. I might have asked you or someone else if over time do breakers become more sensitive or less to trip on overload. It was always something I wondered about. I looked at some breaker time to trip charts and was amazed to see that some don't trip quick enough.

Above: labels on Challenger circuit breakers. The 30A breaker was an example of over-fusing, an un-safe condition.

Anyway I await final advice from you before I put this panel back in service what I did was clean all lugs with steel wire brush and finely smoothed them all with paper, put noalox on liberally with the same sand paper, did same with main breaker wires, grounds, anything that had a connection together.

Tightened everything very snugly all breaker grabs are tight too there were no signs of overheating on wires except at one breaker just the copper looked discolored no melted insulation or breakers anywhere. I believe I read somewhere that pushing breakers on and off the lugs to establish a clean contact creates scratches that may cause arcing is this true?

I would assume so if they are dry and corroded a couple of breakers where tripped that I need to check on. I can't get to trace, test or label anything on the panel when the house contents prevent me from doing so-he is a packrat living in a dilapidated house.

He hasn't had a refrigerator for a year or so now. That burned out from lack of maintenance and could have most definitely contributed to the overheated situation.

So my best educated decision would be to either replace the main breaker or break the common trip bar out and keep whatever the double pole breaker is off and maybe replace all the breakers too and get the right size breakers for some.

He had some 30 ampers with 15 amp wiring-my God! The thing too is he said he only like needs one or 2 rooms of power nowhere else. Not in his basement shop, garage. He needs lighting though I don't know what is what.

I 'm in doubt over my use of noalox and the breakers. I 'm also thinking of splitting up the load evenly with the breakers what in your expertise should I do do? Also i'm a little confused as to does he have a 300 or 150 amp panel and main?

I know that when it's all plugged in and running that the panel should not hum at all. Hhe last 2 breaker pics have one breaker over heating and the others corroded.

Also I bought this meter and a pair of protected very high volt gloves here for a insanely low price and don't how to use it,would it help with finding out the condition and errors of wiring downstream?

Above: the layout of the Westinghouse Challenger electrical panel.

Continuing: I'm not sure if i need to replace the main only or all breakers including the main.i'm not sure about my fine sandpapering on mostly all connections is ok and that my overuse of noalox everywhere is good either.

The overheated situation i've determined by reading your article on it tells me that a breaker or main is to blame for not tripping, which one? I think I was in a rush to comprehend it all. Also these are challenger breakers.

They might not perform well and this is a Westinghouse panel box. I need to get this old man back into his house again by giving him power first then onto his Lennox pulse furnace situation, i don't know if there is a problem with it or not.hopefully it's not a cracked exchanger. - 2018/02/01

I am also confused about this main is this a 150 or a 300 amp breaker? Also after reading a little bit and watching only a few youtube videos about my megger meter which i only paid $25 for and it's brand new along with high volt gloves.

I either didn't see any or haven't gotten to any that explains about house wiring insulation resistance tests. And if it does i could only do 240v or higher. Not really meeting my needs for residential testing .

Are there testers out there to check house wire insulation health?

I've been boggled in the past when i've gotten stray voltages when i would turn the light switch,etc off.

I don't remember exactly if it was off the hot or neutral but they would range from like say 25 or lower volts. I call it 'bleeding' over. I don't know but i do have some mind boggling questions that would happen to me on the job that I could never figure out. . - 2018/02/02